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出版社周刊评论
Respected arbiters of camp and kitsch, the prolific Sterns ( The Encyclopedia of Bad Taste ) currently focus their talent for connecting culture and food on an aspect of an era that, until now, has received little notice. While the lowbrow culinary cliches of the '50s and '60s were real enough, there also existed alongside them a very upper-middle-class appreciation of what the Sterns call ``The Good Life,'' in which `` coq au vinsic replaced dowdy casseroles on the women's pages of upwardly striving daily newspapers'' and according to which ``travelers could enjoy such delicacies as coquilles St. Jacques and creme brulee in the dining room of nearly any Holiday Inn.'' While many such recipes are easily found in volumes that serious cooks may have relegated to the dusty back shelves of their collections, a number of those included here are welcome revivals (``incredibly rich lobster Thermidor''). Others, like ``1964 World's Fair Sangria,'' are amusing relics. And some--``Life-Affirming Moussaka'' and ``Aphrodisiacal Artichokes''--divulge a rarely seen '50s sensibility. In their inimitably witty, urbane and wonderfully entertaining style, the Sterns give the era its due. Photos not seen by PW. HomeStylesic alternate. (Oct.) (c) Copyright PWxyz, LLC. All rights reserved
Kirkus评论
The Sterns (The Encyclopedia of Bad Taste, 1990, etc.) step upscale for this treatment of the gourmet quarter-century they place between the first televised cooking show in 1946 and the opening of Alice Waters's Chez Panisse in 1971. This time, instead of showcasing the worst examples of a period dish, they try to select the best, so if you can forget about cholesterol, you might find yourself nostalgia-tripping with such innocent showoff foods as fondue, crêpes suzette, and baked Alaska. Unlike the exclusionary epicures before them or the status-grabbing foodies of the Eighties, the Sterns maintain, the gourmets featured here were motivated by a sense of adventure about exploring foreign foods and a genuine desire to experience and provide pleasurable dining. The Sterns' commentary on all this is on the mark (though they misrepresent Taste of America authors John and Karen Hess, who came later and were antigourmet), entertaining (uncovering many cookbooks, cooking shows, and new flamboyant restaurants from Trader Vic's--the ersatz Polynesian establishment created out of a French Canadian's Oakland place called Hinky Dink's--to the more serious Four Seasons), and fondly evocative of those heady days of sauced and flaming spectacles. The Sterns (The Encyclopedia of Bad Taste, 1990, etc.) step upscale for this treatment of the gourmet quarter-century they place between the first televised cooking show in 1946 and the opening of Alice Waters's Chez Panisse in 1971. This time, instead of showcasing the worst examples of a period dish, they try to select the best, so if you can forget about cholesterol, you might find yourself nostalgia-tripping with such innocent showoff foods as fondue, crêpes suzette, and baked Alaska. Unlike the exclusionary epicures before them or the status-grabbing foodies of the Eighties, the Sterns maintain, the gourmets featured here were motivated by a sense of adventure about exploring foreign foods and a genuine desire to experience and provide pleasurable dining. The Sterns' commentary on all this is on the mark (though they misrepresent Taste of America authors John and Karen Hess, who came later and were antigourmet), entertaining (uncovering many cookbooks, cooking shows, and new flamboyant restaurants from Trader Vic's--the ersatz Polynesian establishment created out of a French Canadian's Oakland place called Hinky Dink's--to the more serious Four Seasons), and fondly evocative of those heady days of sauced and flaming
《书目》(Booklist)书评
Memories flood the brain. Long-ago names pique interest. Forgotten foods spark taste sensations. What pop sociojournalists Jane and Michael Stern chronicle is how Americans jumped from meat and potatoes to the freshest of cuisines, specifically the period from 1947 to 1971--after World War II to the establishment of Alice Waters' Chez Panisse. Always entertaining, they conjure up remembrances of foodstuffs and trends past: the advent of the word gourmet, travel's influence upon eating habits, TV chefs, high-class restaurants, food as aphrodisiac, and home entertaining. Reading the documentation is fun and often educational; adding practicality to the frolic are the over 100 recipes, representing many fads that have survived the gourmet revolt, including beef tartare, pate, Caesar salad, fondues, even noodle doodle and cheese. ~--Barbara Jacobs
《图书馆杂志》(Library Journal )书评
The Sterns, authors of Square Meals ( LJ 8/84), among other books about American culture and food, now move on to our ``mid-century gourmets.'' They chronicle the beginnings of Gourmet magazine and an interest in sophisticated cuisine, the emerging popularity of foreign foods, the rise of TV cooking shows, and the growth of restaurant dining. The recipes they include are a real mix--it's sometimes hard to differentiate between the ones they have chosen as rediscovered classics and those that are examples of ``gourmania'' gone wrong--and at times there seems to be a confusing antigourmand undercurrent to their analysis. Nevertheless, this is sure to be in demand. HomeStyle Books alternate. (c) Copyright 2010. Library Journals LLC, a wholly owned subsidiary of Media Source, Inc. No redistribution permitted.