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摘要
摘要
For all Native American cultures, from the Plains and Southwest people to the tribes of the Northwest Coast, the blanket makes a visual statement of "Indianness." Language of the Robe explains a living tradition among the Native American people. Today, trade blankets are collectibles, especially those that were made prior to World War II. Language of the Robe identifies, classifies, and presents the history of the trade blanket. Within the tribe or pueblo, the blanket is a statement of an individual's bond to the older, traditional ways, to roots that run deep. As a gift, the blanket is an important acknowledgement of friendship, gratitude and respect. Bright colors and intricately woven patterns are the hallmarks of the American Indian trade blankets. Even though the blankets were commercially produced by companies such as the famous Pendleton Woolen Mills, they were embraced by Native American peoples across the country and became an integral part of their culture and ceremonies. AUTHOR: Robert W. Kapoun and his wife, Marianne, collect and document trade blankets. Bob has lectured extensively on the subject and has curated a traveling exhibition. He and his family live in Santa Fe, New Mexico, and are owner of The Rainbow Man. Charles J. Lohrmann was founding editor of Four Winds magazine, a journal of Native American art, culture and history. He is a freelance writer who lives in Austin, Texas. Illustrated
评论 (2)
《书目》(Booklist)书评
American Indian trade blankets, manufactured by a select group of American mills, became a primary exchange item between whites and native Americans across the continent. The warm, durable, all wool, and boldly designed blankets replaced buffalo robes and transcended their considerable usefulness and comfort by evolving into cultural, even poetic, statements emblematic of tribal identity, wealth, and status. The authors of this handsomely illustrated book recount the history of the manufacture, dissemination, design, and widespread popularity of trade blankets, describing how they were used to carry everything from babies to firewood in addition to serving as both attire and bedding. The "language of the robe" refers to the various draping styles worn by men and women, which stood for specific emotions (such as anger, hesitation, or admonition) or activities (e.g., courtship, addressing the tribe, or watchfulness). Photographs from the nineteenth and early twentieth century depict native Americans from a variety of tribes wearing trade blankets, while 250 color photographs display examples of the strikingly patterned, brightly hued traditional designs produced by such companies as the Hudson Bay Company, Pendleton, Capps, and Oregon City. An enlightening perspective on native American culture, this is also an enjoyably informative guide for collectors. ~--Donna Seaman
Choice 评论
Assembled here for the first time is a corpus of information on the identity, classification, and history of the American Indian trade blanket. Kapoun has long been a collector of trade blankets; Lohrmann is a free lance writer. An Indian perspective is conveyed in three interesting short essays by people of Navajo, Osage, and Sioux descent. The trade blanket was designed and machine-woven in American woolen mills, using design elements copied from traditional Indian designs and combined into one of six general patterns. Much easier to acquire than native hand-loomed textiles, trade blankets (robes and shawls) were readily adopted by traditional Indians for daily and ceremonial use. Most important, they continued as a means of communication of ideas, emotions, and traditional meaning the "language" conveyed by the robe. A detailed history of the role of trade blankets is presented, as well as a history of five principal American woolen mills that produced trade blankets and other goods for both Indians and collectors. Short but good bibliography; references in the text to endnotes. The work is generously illustrated with more than 300 photographs. Collectors will find the history and information about sizes, weight, construction, labels, bindings, etc. extremely useful. The text of Sections 2 and 3 is somewhat marred by repetitious phrases and inadequate proofreading. Undergraduate and general. H. H. Schuster; emerita, Iowa State University
摘录
摘录
When I was a child, my family attended sacred Navajo ceremonies and dances. I remember starry nights after the first frost, when the season of storytelling began and the Yei-Bei-Chais were to arrive. We loaded my father's truck with food, Pendleton blankets, and quilts, as we prepared to spend the nights at the site of the upcoming ceremony. My mother dressed us in beautiful clothes she had made herself--velvet blouses with silver buttons and long skirts. The people traveled by horse-drawn covered wagons or in trucks. When we arrived at the ceremonial site, there was always the smell of pinon and cedar smoke in the air. This scent, mixed with the aroma of roasting lamb, let me know this was a special occasion. Excerpted from Language of the Robe: American Indian Trade Blankets by Robert W. Kapoun, Charles J. Lohrmann All rights reserved by the original copyright owners. Excerpts are provided for display purposes only and may not be reproduced, reprinted or distributed without the written permission of the publisher.目录
Foreword |
Preface |
Acknowledgments |
Section I The Humanist Perspective on the Trade Blanket |
Section II A History of the American Indian Trade Blanket |
Section III The Major Trade Blanket Manufacturers |
Bibliography and Endnotes |